Niceties Of Life

There is a point, about two hours south of Hanoi’s chaotic motorbike symphony, where the landscape finally exhales. The flat rice paddies of the Red River Delta begin to ripple, and then, without warning, they erupt. Limestone karsts, shrouded in a hazy, mythical mist, punch through the earth like the spines of sleeping dragons. This is Ninh Binh, often called “Ha Long Bay on Land,” and it is just as spectacular as it sounds.

1. Stop 1: The Dragon of Mua Cave (and the 500 Steps)
2. Stop 2: Hoa Lu – The Ancient Capital
3. Stop 3: Ca Ri De and a Buffet
4. Stop 4: Cycling Through the Villages
5. Stop 5: The Main Event – Trang An Boat Tour
6. Travel Tips & Schedule Recap

I was picked up from my hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter right at 7:45 AM. The streets were already a blur of street vendors and bustling locals. After a quick coffee and breakfast to shake off the sleep, I boarded a modern, air-conditioned luxury bus. The guide was a jovial Vietnamese man named Cui (not sure if I spelled this correctly), welcomed us with a warm smile. He also gave a quick rundown of the day. As we left the city sprawl behind, the views through the window turned from urban grey to luscious green. It’s early February so the weather is quite cool with temperature dropping at around 17-18 C creating a foggy and misty morning.

Stop 1: The Dragon of Mua Cave (and the 500 Steps)

After a quick rest stop, we arrived at the base of Mua Cave. The name literally means “Dancing Cave,” but the real attraction isn’t underground—its above ground. To reach the peak, you have to conquer nearly 500 stone steps to see the dragon statue on top. It is a thigh-burner, especially in the humidity, but Mr. Cui assured us, “The pain is temporary, but the photo is forever.” He wasn’t wrong the view on top is spectacular and the peak is less crowded that day.

As I climbed, I passed by the newly installed lotus pond at the foot of the mountain, unfortunatley the lotus flowers were harvested already and just few water lillies float contratsing the white karst at the background. Reaching the top, where a massive stone dragon coils around the peak, the view stopped me in my tracks. Below, the Ngo Dong River snaked through a patchwork of rice fields, completely encircled by towering mountains. It felt refreshing and made me smile.

Stop 2: Hoa Lu – The Ancient Capital

Back on the bus (grateful for the air conditioning!), we traveled a short distance to Hoa Lu. This was the political and cultural center of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries. Walking through the gates feels like stepping back in time.

We visited the temples dedicated to King Dinh Tien Hoang and King Le Dai Hanh. The architecture is classic Vietnamese, with intricate wood carvings and serene courtyards. Our guide explained how King Dinh chose this location for its natural defense—those limestone mountains we just climbed acted as a fortress wall. Standing there, looking at the ornate altars dedicated to the King and Queen, you could almost feel the weight of a thousand years of history. It’s a quiet, respectful place, a stark contrast to the energy of Hanoi.

Stop 3: Ca Ri De and a Buffet

By now, the morning hikes had worked up a serious appetite. We headed to a local restaurant called Dragon King. It was not a tourist trap, but a busy, clean spot filled with local cuisine. The restaurant offered unlimited food choices. Whether you’re into protein, vegan, pescatarian, or vegetarian diet, you have so many choices.

The spread was impressive: local specialties like com chay (crispy fried rice), spring rolls, stir-fried greens, and plenty of rice. But the surprise hit was the “Ca Ri De”, a rich curry mountain goat stew. Yes, it’s a bit of a tourist-friendly twist on local cuisine. After a long morning, savoring local cuisines with local herbs was exactly what I needed. I ate almost everything except for the curry stewed goat though.

Stop 4: Cycling Through the Villages

With full stomachs, it was time to work it off. The tour included a 30-minute bike ride through the countryside. Participants can pedal with the tour guide along narrow paths between limestone mountains, past grazing goats and farmers tending to their fields.
Unfortunately I did not join them, cause I am a fall-risk! I had hip operation and has metal implant, so my PTSD sort of kick-in and I’m scared to get into bike accident. I stayed by the restaurant waiting area together with my friend, while I watch him fly his drone. Despite not being able to pedal, this was the part of the day that felt the most authentic—gliding past unreachable areas and capturing local villagers who waved and smiled at the drone. The drone view, gives me a feel for the rhythm of life here that I just can’t get from a bus window.

Stop 5: The Main Event – Trang An Boat Tour

If Mua Cave was the appetizer, Trang An is the feast. We boarded small, traditional rowboats paddled almost exclusively by local women —they are so strong despite the small frame and is mesmerizing to watch.

For the next 1.5 to 2 hours, we drifted through a surreal maze of waterways, gliding into the mouths of dark, low-hanging caves. As we emerged on the other side of each mountain, we entered hidden valleys surrounded by sheer cliffs, completely cut off from the outside world. There are pagodas tucked into the mountainsides here that are only accessible by water. The silence inside the caves, broken only by the drip of water and the soft splash of the oars, is profound. It’s a spiritual, serene experience that makes you feel incredibly small. Realistically every now and then you will hear noise created by some unruly tourists, which we can’t do anything about anyway.

As the sun began to lower in the sky, we reluctantly returned to the boat dock. We boarded the bus for the journey back to Hanoi, the gentle hum of the engine lulling everyone into a contented silence. We pulled back into the Old Quarter around 7:30 PM, tired, sun-kissed, and full of memories.

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Travel Tips & Schedule Recap

If you’re planning this tour, here is what you need to know:

Typical Schedule:

• 7:30 – 8:00 AM: Pickup from Old Quarter hotels.
• 10:00 AM: Arrive at Mua Cave. Climb the peak (500 steps) and visit the Lotus Pond.
• 12:00 PM: Visit Hoa Lu Ancient Capital.
• 1:00 PM: Buffet lunch at a local restaurant.
• 2:00 PM: Short bike ride through the villages.
• 2:30 PM: Boat tour at Trang An (approx 2 hours).
• 4:30 PM: Board the bus for return to Hanoi.
• 7:00 – 7:30 PM: Drop off in Old Quarter.

Insider Tips:

1. Dress for the climb: Wear sneakers or sturdy sandals for Mua Cave. Flip-flops are a danger zone on those steep steps.
2. Sun protection: The boat ride is long and exposed. A hat and sunscreen are non-negotiable.
3. Cash: The toilets at the rest stops sometimes charge a small fee (3,000 VND), and you’ll want cash to tip the boat rowers (50,000 – 100,000 VND is standard).
4. Camera prep: Keep your phone/camera in a waterproof bag. It can get splashy in the caves! On I remember our tour guide said “if you drop your phone/camera, say goodbye forever” the river is more than 2 meters deep – or maybe deeper LOL
5. Timing: This is a long, active day. Get good sleep the night before, and don’t drink too much water right before the boat ride—there are no bathroom breaks on the water!

Personally this is one of my most relaxing tour and I highly recommend this to those who plan to travel in Hanoi.